13-Nights Something About Korea

Jeju Island

Large Jeju Island 60 mi/100 km off the coast of the mainland and 300 mi/485 km south of Seoul has a distinctive history, dress, architecture, language and tradition. Jeju is an extremely popular tourist destination for Koreans, especially honeymooners. Millions of won have been pumped into building deluxe hotels and modernizing infrastructure. Although development has somewhat ended the island's isolation, it hasn't eroded its charms—it is still a great place to visit. Jeju seems a world away from the mainland, even though it's relatively easy to reach—only an hour's flight south of Seoul or a several-hour ferry ride from Busan, Mokpo or Wando.

If you have a choice of when to go, visit in late spring, when Jeju is covered with beautiful yellow yuchaehwa flowers. The island's primary attractions are beaches, fishing, casinos, scuba diving, a weavers' village (Hallim), hot springs and three stunning coastal waterfalls, particularly the Jeongbang Falls at Seogwipo, which plunge almost directly into the sea.

In friendly and festive Jeju, the largest city on the island, there's a Folkcraft and Natural History Museum and an interesting market. About 4 mi/6 km from the city is Moksuk-won, a natural sculpture garden of stone and wood. On the south side of the island, Jeju Folk Village Museum, a collection of traditional houses with musical performances and displays, is well worth a visit.

Also on the island is the tallest mountain in South Korea, Hallasan, which is topped with snow in the winter. There are hiking trails on this extinct volcano, and it has an impressive crater lake. Be sure also to visit some caves: According to legend, three gods emerged 2,500 years ago from the Samseonghyeol (literally "three clans' holes") to create the Jeju Island people.

On a drive around the island, note the black-lava statues of old men, called harubang: Their origin is unknown and the subject of much debate among anthropologists. You can also watch as divers (traditionally women) hunt for clams, pearls and abalone. A dying breed, these incredible women dive into the ocean's depths for long periods of time without using any scuba or snorkeling gear.

Other attractions include saltwater baths (in Sinyang, Hyeopje and Jungmun), the Bijarim nutmeg forest, tangerine groves, the Sanbanggul Buddhist Grotto, the Jungmun beach-resort area and Manjang Cave (the world's longest lava tube). Plan at least two to three days to explore the island.

Andong

Traditionally a center for the yangban (aristocrat) class, Andong and the surrounding area have retained much of Korea's old culture. When the Andong Dam was built in 1976, 111 mi/180 km southeast of Seoul, the resulting lake would have destroyed many cultural relics. Luckily, most were relocated to the Andong Folk Village (Hahoe Maeul) and Folk Museum, both located near the foot of the dam. Some of the houses have been converted to restaurants serving traditional food—definitely worth a stop.

Located north of Andong, Dosan Seowon was one of the country's most famous Confucian institutes. West of the town you will find the Hahoe Maeul, a living folk village with more than 100 traditional buildings. If you want to rough it and see how Koreans used to live, you can even arrange a homestay with one of the villagers there (best to have someone in the Korean Tourism Organization make arrangements for you in Korean, however). A popular Mask Dance Festival is held there each autumn, a combination of dance, drama, satire and traditional shamanistic rituals.

Daejeon

Daejeon, South Korea, located 95 mi/150 km south of Seoul, hosted the 1993 World Expo, which has been converted to a theme park focused on science and technology. West of town is Gyeryong Mountain, where there are hiking trails, beautiful fall foliage, and the Gapsa and Donghaksa temples nestled in the hills. Southeast of town is Jikjisa Temple and its 1,000 statues of the Buddha as a baby (the entire temple complex, in a gorgeous setting in the mountains, is wondrous). The Yuseong Hot Springs are also worth a visit.

About 50 mi/80 km northeast of Daejeon is Songnisan National Park. A wonderful place to experience Korea's Buddhist culture firsthand, it houses Beopjusa Temple, home to Korea's tallest Buddha statue (109 ft/33 m high). The Korean government named its mountain peaks one of the country's eight most scenic attractions. Also not far from Daejeon is the Twin Lions Stone Lantern, the Stone Lotus water container and other national treasures, all set in a beautiful, wooded mountain setting. The park is especially beautiful during spring and fall.

Allow two days for Daejeon and the surrounding area—we recommend overnighting near one of the temples rather than in the city itself.

Gyeongju

If your schedule permits stopping at only one city other than Seoul, that city should be Gyeongju, 165 mi/265 km southeast of Seoul. It was the capital of the Silla Kingdom (57 BC-AD 935) and has a high concentration of temples, statuary and burial mounds, as well as an excellent historical museum.

One of the highlights of your visit will be a walk through Tumuli Park, where you'll stroll among the burial mounds of 20 kings, some several stories high and looking more like hills covered with soft green grass than the royal tombs that they are. (Oddly enough, the park was only dedicated in the 1970s. Before that, the area was residential.) Just a few have been excavated, and the interior of only one is open to the public. Inside, an exhibit re-creates what it looked like when the mound was first explored, and some of the original contents are on display. Most of the finds, however, are exhibited in the Gyeongju National Museum, along with other artifacts from Gyeongju's golden age.

Outside of town is Bulguk Temple, one of the most beautiful temples in the country. It's a large complex with wonderful architecture, pagodas and statuary. There are other temples and mounds near Gyeongju (some have larger-than-life stone soldiers and bureaucrats to guard and guide the departed kings in the afterlife) as well as the Seogbinggo (where ice was kept long before refrigeration), Anapji Pond (a part of the royal pleasure garden), a very early star-gazing tower and other relics.

Also within easy driving distance are the Seokguram Grotto (containing an exquisite stone Buddha image surrounded by friezes) and the Poseokjeong Pavilion. In the mountains surrounding the city are thousands of Buddhist temples, inscriptions and pagodas (the roads to some are impassable without a four-wheel-drive vehicle). You could spend weeks driving around, but two or three days will give most travelers a taste of the area.

One other nearby attraction merits mention, though it is difficult to get to: the underwater tomb of King Munmu (AD 661-681). The tomb is submerged in shallow water in the middle of a little island about 300 ft/90 m offshore. Legends say that King Munmu asked to be buried there so he could return as a dragon to protect his people from invasion. Visitors must bargain with a local boat owner to get to the tomb.

If time permits, visit the village of Yangdong, just south of Pohang. Ignored by most tourists, the village seems immune to all forms of modernization.

Pusan (Busan)

Seoul